By Steve Baker

    I made my first trip to Greenville in the spring of 1992. A group of us drove down from Asheville to do what was know as “The Bakery Ride.” All I knew was that it was a 60-mile+ ride into the mountains of NC, culminating at a little bakery that sold some of the best hot sticky buns in the country.
    I didn’t know where the thing was, I just knew that most of the cyclists in the area rode there most Saturday mornings. Back then, it was not uncommon for 40-50 riders to pedal together to that iconic sweet treat destination.
    As I savored my first sticky bun just over the state line, I knew I would return. I’ve been going back regularly for more than 15 years, and I am not alone. Hundreds of cyclists converge on the little café every weekend, looking for a pastry or two to help them get back home.
The Birth of the Bun
    Debi Thomas opened the Wildflour Bakery on the end of Main St. in Saluda in the late ’80s. As the business grew, she moved it to a larger facility that would accommodate more traffic and – most importantly – more baking.
    In addition to the small café, she has built a strong wholesale business to feed the increasing consumer demand for small artisan breads sold through larger grocery store chains. Wildflour currently supplies a wide variety of high quality, fresh-baked breads to stores like Whole Foods, BI-LO, Ingles and others around the southeast. This part of the business has outpaced the café business that has attracted local residents, tourists and cyclists with good food and friendly service.
The Business Decision
    If hundreds of cyclists visit every weekend and Saluda tourism is alive and well, why shut the doors? I’ve been there on a cold winter day and still couldn’t find a single seat in the whole place. If all these cyclists and tourists are feasting on sandwiches, sticky buns and fruit pastries, why decide to pack it up? It may be a simple matter of economics and brand development.
    Like any good business owner, Thomas wants to improve her company by focusing on her biggest opportunities for growth.
    “Our wholesale business has grown so much that we just don’t have the time to run the café anymore,” Thomas explains. “The café part of the business is for sale. We would love to find a buyer that wants to keep the café open.” The Wildflour Bakery is not just a popular destination for area cyclists. It’s been an important part of the Saluda community for a long time.
    “The bakery is a huge part of our local community. It’s not just a bakery. It’s a place for us to conduct business, have meetings or just congregate for fun. Not only is it a huge tourist destination, but it’s also a place that locals go to hang out and socialize,” said Susan Casey, owner of The Purple Onion in Saluda.
    Casey worked for Thomas prior to opening the Purple Onion 10 years ago, and the two remain close friends. She understands Thomas’ situation. “This is a very seasonal town, and that is challenging for restaurant and café businesses,” said Casey. “The Purple Onion is open for lunch and dinner, and we sell beer and wine. Debi doesn’t have that. She has to make it on food sales.”
    It seems ironic to me that the relatively low levels of spending by cyclists could possibly have contributed to the situation. Regardless of my theory, no one can fault Thomas for wanting to concentrate on a thriving wholesale business.
The Road Ahead
    At the time of this writing, Tosh’s Whistle Stop is planning to renovate the space and move in the new spot in May.
    Tosh’s Whistle Stop is owned by Cindi Miller and Marsha Jenkins, and named for Miller’s daughter. Their current location is just down from the Widlflour building.
They are planning to sell Wildflour bread at retail, but they are still figuring out what bakery items they will sell. Debi Thomas has stopped making many of the personal bakery
items, so they might not be available.
    “Marsha makes some awesome homemade scones,” says Miller. “We’re excited to move into the new building.The kitchen is huge and the restaurant is much bigger.” 
    They plan to continue with Sunday brunch and are discussing options to be open on Saturdays.
    The Whistle Stop café will still provide free wireless Internet access, the espresso machines will run all the time, and they will continue to offer their traditional menu along with our popular homemade ice cream.
    “We really want to expand the outdoor seating capacity, and we should be able to continue selling beer and wine,” says Miller. “We’re working with Wildflour to make the transition happen quickly and smoothly.”
    Saluda neighbor Keith Owen, owner of Keith’s Triathlon Shop, shared the building with Wildflour and is obviously glad to see a new neighbor on the horizon.
    “I moved my triathlon shop here because I knew how many cyclists were coming to this location every week,” says Owen enthusiastically. “My business has been up 35-40% since I moved next door.”
    Owen also points out that everyone has benefited from the popularity that the bakery has garnered internationally. “In the last several weeks, I’ve met customers from across the US, Canada, Europe and South Africa. Each one of them has read something or talked to a friend that sent them to THE bakery.”
    It is painful for me to see an icon like The Bakery go away, but this historic little town has plenty of reasons to remain our favorite cycling destination. Whether it’s a hot sticky bun or a homemade scone waiting for us at the top, truth is, it doesn’t matter. The challenging terrain, beautiful scenery and quiet mountain atmosphere of the ride will keep us itching for a reason to saddle up and head across the state line.